Thank goodness I did a little bit of research prior to departing home, as the lack of information at Saint Charles was staggering. Luckily, I knew to take the Underground Metro to Vieux Port on the M1 transport link. It's not difficult to navigate around the Metro, as Marseille only has two Metro lines (M1 and M2). Yet, the amount of other transport links by Bus and overground Trains are overwhelming and the Station is large, with hundreds of travellers darting from one place and the next. 

 

After two Metro stops, Vieux Port station is bustling with many travellers. It's soon apparent your on the ocean front, as the waft of salty sea air and aroma of the catch of the day encroaches upon your senses as you return to street level. Vieux Port, the heart of Marseille laps the shores of the city centre. Their is a cacophony of fish mongers, boats and water cruisers, buskers, buses and visitors to the marina. The blur of colour and movement entices the senses and invites you to become part of the dance that is the human interaction at the hub of Marseille. 

 

The architecture of the city is reminiscent to that of Paris. This makes sense, seeing they are in the same country, yet the difference here are the epitaphs on the side of the buildings, counting the tales of the ship wrecks, where as in Rome you'll find epitaphs to the Virgin Mary enticing her fellow countrymen to be good people to allow their souls to ascend to Heaven and the pearly gates when they leave this mortal coil.  

 

The only sad part about Vieux Port is the overwhelming burgeoning of tourist restaurants encompassing the port and taking advantage of the view. 

 

There are many places to visit to indulge in the history of Marseille, my first stop was the Pharo du Palice. The Palice has had many uses over the years, starting as the Palace for 

 

************ Pharo de Palice - need historical facts *************

 

 

A short walk took me to the Fort Nicholas, so I thought would give me a few hours of exploring the battlements and interior of an ancient Fort, once the protector of Marseille. This was not the case. The first sign pointing in the direction of the entrance took me to a locked gate. Not to be perturbed by this unfortunate situation, I discovered another entrance at the top of an 80-step stone staircase, so up I went, to discover a "Do Not Enter" sign hanging on this gate. This turned out to be a wonderful opportunity to take some photos of Vieux Port from a new angle. I realised there was another sign, pointing in a different direction to the first sign. This entrance was for Tour Groups, so, in a tour group of one, I followed this sign around the corner and up a winding side street, straight into the entrance of the local tennis club.  During this jaunt, I discovered another sign pointing up the main shopping street, and absolutely determined not to be beaten, I followed the winding street from the Tennis Club back to the main street and trudged on towards the entrance of Fort Nicholas. Following my eye line of the Fort, I made my way past cafes, a florist, a local wine merchant, fruit and veg seller and an enticing pastry shop, my keen eye on the Fort perched above on the hill. At the next intersection I found the next sign pointing to the next direction. Alas to say, I won't bore you with the ongoing guessing game and saga, as I know understand why the Fort was never defeated, as the approaching enemy were not able to find it. And neither was I. The Fort is an abolition that can be seen and never found. 

 

Part of Marseille's history belongs to the Catholic church and with a surviving 5th Century Abby and its mysterious Crypt below, this part of Marseille needs to be explored. The original structure has survived many invasions, two world wars and the plague. The high stone ceilings are showing their age, being kept upright with modern metal rods, otherwise the walls would've collapsed many decades ago. The Pipe Organ is something to be marvelled at, enthusiasts of church pipe organs who truly appreciate this fine art would be overwhelmed by its size of structure and age, and the fact it is a working organ. 

 

Down the stairs and into the Crypt, it's original stone plaques, stone work and headstones dating back from the 5th Century bring a hushed ore over the visitors to the Crypt. One headstone, written by a grieving mother detailing her emotional pain over the loss of her two sons, lost at sea from a shipwreck still strikes at the heart 16 Centuries later. The human story transcends the ages. 

 

************ what is the name of the Church On The Hill ****************

 

With my previous experience of attempting to find Fort Nicholas, I attempted to start the pilgrimage up to the Church On The Hill. Stupid idea. Too many signs pointing in too many different directions. Following the signs and the map, the Old Town of Marseille is obviously not for the fainthearted. On the map, streets connect together where an intersection should exist, yet a stone wall connects the roads by a hundred-step stone staircase tumbling down the hill towards the next road. Clearly, I'm not going to discover this marvel of worship and ancient house, looks like I'm going to the need the assistance of the Petit Train to take me from Vieux Port centre up to it's drop off point in the car park of the Church.

 

******************** Church on the hill - need some historical facts ********************

 

Some other tourist attractions to find are the Fort on the other side of the Port, the Museum and many of the sights to behold at the mouth of the Port. There are some walking tours in the tourist guides and some other suggestions to indulge in, but these are vague at the best of times and after these two lost experiences, I decided to take the approach of when in Marseille, allow the city to talk to you and follow your nose through the streets of Marseille, get lost in the beauty and it's cobble stoned streets. Fall under the spell of the city, fall in love with the senses of what Marseille has to offer and discover the city for yourself. Look up, see the broad wooden window shutters, the building's artwork dedicated to the many ship wrecks entrenched in Marseille's history and understand the Roman's plight as they marched towards the city to overtake the lands. 

 

Behind the Vieux Port you'll find the locals, the real people of Marseille, the mix of people, religions and cultures. There is a strong influence of all three main religions present; Jewish, Muslim and Christian and as an observer of this city, they all seem to mix, integrate and remain individual all at the same time with great clarity. 

 

There are many locations to get lost and found in Marseille, side streets, brassieres and there's always time to engage with the locals. I walked past a local place of worship to find a wedding party celebrating out the front with great voice in song and music. There was time to sit outside in a small side street cafe and enjoy the sunshine, a glass of the local produce and sample the simple French cuisine. There's something refreshing and telling about staying away from the tourist traps. By all means, indulge in the businesses and people who set themselves up to serve the tourist industry, I like to support them, yet finding somewhere local, not complicated, and intrinsically for the local people provides a truth to the daily lives of those living in this city. That is where the magic lays. 

 

Take a train, take a bus, take a tram or take a taxi, you'll find yourself in a beautiful place, within yourself and within this beautiful city.

 

Now it's time to get out of the city. Go and see somewhere beautiful, entice the senses and fall in love with Provence. There are so many places to visit, and this is the overwhelming sensation of France and I assume Europe, there isn 't just one or two things to do in a region, there are many, many things to do and one life time is not enough to experience them all, but I'm willing to give them all a good shot at it. 

 

******************* A Better Introduction to Simon ***********************

 

********** Talk about the Villages visited and the experiences had **********

 

I chose this tour with the specific intention of seeing beautiful places, sights and sensations to inspire the imagination. Upon being greeted by our Tour Guide, Simon Tache at the allotted meeting place out the front of the easy to locate cafe, Simon engaged with me, interested to know what I wanted out of my time on the tour. Simon did not disappoint, with his knowledge and experience he took our little group by the hand and guided us through the villages and landscapes of Provence. 

 

He took the time to show us interesting points, tucked away places and businesses of interest to us, allowing us to discover the colours and tastes of the region. Simon took the time to ensure we had what we needed and allowed us to discover and learn about where we were and what we were experiencing. We weren't rushed. Nothing was a problem and had it not been for Simon's care, interest in our needs and generosity, I believe I would've experienced a side of Provence that would not have been as wonderful, exciting and delicious. Provence is an experience to be savoured and Simon was the perfect host. Thank you, Simon.

 

By the end of the Provence tour, with all that walking, my feet were singing a different tune. After a long hot shower, posting some photos onto my online Social Networking account and massaging my feet, I managed to make my way to the Hotel's Concierge to find out where I could go for a local meal of good local cuisine, good wine and somewhere that is not a tourist trap. I was not disappointed by this quaint restaurant called, Le Livron